Our RAM,JEEP audio harness is designed to help add a sub or amplify door speakers in a variety of RAM, Dodge, Jeep or Chrysler vehicles. If you are planning to add a sub to your RAM we offer our T-Harness. The RAM T-Harness makes it easy to add a sub, by adding an LOC to your T-Harness like an Audio Control LC2i Pro or a Wavtech LinkDQ, you have a full plug and play set up.
Want to amplify the speakers, we offer our Loopback Harness. This makes your install quick and easy, NO cutting, NO splicing. Add an amp and boost your system while using your factory wiring. Keep your RAM, Dodge vehicle intact, for a plug and play solution you are able to add a processor like an Audio Control LC7i or a Wavtech Link6 to your Loopback Harness.
**Some RAMs between 2014-2017 may require to see a load resistance when installing new speakers or subwoofer. We recommend using a Link2 or LinkDQ (comes with load resistance) to prevent any problems. **
This Harness is truly one of it’s kind. This harness was designed for the non-amplified system in RAM, Chrysler, Jeep and Dodge vehicles making installing aftermarket car audio systems a breeze. Our harness throughout the years has evolved into what we call, and are currently in the process of patenting, our Elite Series Harness. This option is an all-in-on solution for the ultimate DIY’er.. After 3 years, developing our own wire and combining LOC’s, processors, DSP’s and companies like Audio Control and Rockford Fosgate, who offer amplifiers with a high level input signal. By combining these top shelf solutions for the 12V market you can get an entire system upgrade at the same price of a factory head unit upgrade alone.
The Elite T-harness helps you add a sub/mono amp to your vehicle quick and simple while retaining all the features in your vehicle like the Bluetooth, Steering Wheel Controls and OnStar. The Elite Loopback Harness was designed and created by LLJ Customs to help customer add a full system to their vehicle, with the need of running your own wire, no splicing or cutting necessary.
Our goal with our line of T-harnesses is clear (it’s in our name), making sure everyone gets their custom product based on their needs and what works properly for their vehicle. You are able to build and customize your harness to your preferences and needs; like the length of the harness or adding an LOC unit of your choice. We offer a variety of choices like an Audio Control LC2i Pro, a Link2 or LinkDQ from Wavtech for when you are just adding a subwoofer/s. With an LOC added to the harness you are getting a full plug and play set up; with the harness providing signal and the LOC unit providing RCA out and remote turn on to your amp.
-Must Have a Base Connector to use this Accessory (BC)
The question is always what is the difference between the T-harness and the Loopback and the simple answer is, the T-harness is ideal for adding a Subwoofer only/mono amp or in a situation where you plan to run your own wires from the aftermarket amp to your new speakers. More information in the next page.
-Must Have a Base Connector to use this Accessory
Our Loopback is simply the best option for any installation. Not just do you get the SIGNAL from the factory source unit but it also comes with 12v DC +/- to power your LOC or DSP. It also have a RETURN side that feeds from your aftermarket amps output, back to the factory speaker locations via the factory wires. The Loopback can also be tied together at the end, closing the loop in essence making a T-harness so you can start small and grow without needing to buy more.
High level : AKA Speaker level is an amp that can handle an input voltage of 8-40v. This high output is common in factory amplified vehicles or where the
max voltage of a head unit is more then 10v. This is normally identified by a pigtail connection point or via the RCA on the amplifier (must check user manual to verify.) Some amps have a switch for this. NOT all amps have this future.
Low Level : is 0-8v of signal voltage. This is most commonly found inaftermarket head units. or other aftermarket units that use can-bus. Most passive LOC units output 0-5v so they are considered a low level and are normally RCA to RCA. Modern day ACTIVE LOC units can output 0-10v of signal.
In conclusion an LOC works as an in line filter that lest you control the signal, its intercity and in some cases the playable frequency range.
If your amp takes a high level and it is within the vehicles factory output range then you dont need an loc unit and can wire in and out of your amp
directly. In some fords the signal can be flattened at the OB2 furthering the simplification of the installation.
